http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=hyrqsmgbzpayeiza
The Austrian bike path system is simply awesome
Yet another castle ruin along the way
Entering Triglav National park and the climb up to Vrsiic Pass
Day 15 Rest Day Lienz - Amlach (25km)
Yes our rest day we still managed to ride just far enough to find a good cheap campground to do some laundry at - we washed and dried everything for 1.50 Euro - bargain. Found a nice guest house where they spoke no English and had more stuffed animals on the walls than anything we have ever seen before.
Day 16 Amlach - Kranjska Gora
Yes our rest day we still managed to ride just far enough to find a good cheap campground to do some laundry at - we washed and dried everything for 1.50 Euro - bargain. Found a nice guest house where they spoke no English and had more stuffed animals on the walls than anything we have ever seen before.
Day 16 Amlach - Kranjska Gora
This day started with a nice gentle climb 5-6% right out the front door. Then down into Kotschach. and onto another spectacular Austrian bike path. As Stephen says "catwalks to the next set of mountain passes for us to climb"
The next pass was not quite so easy - we climbed to 1530 meters to find that Nassfeldpass was closed on the other side. Being on Bicycles does have its advantages as we were able to get through the closure area and proceed down the other side.
There were several motorbikes who had come from the same side as us who were also uninformed of the closure. They were allowed to pass through the closure area also and proceed down. This was a relief since we had hoped to reach Kranjska Gora that day and a pass closure would definitely have put a dent in our travels.
We passed through the town of Tarvisio and onto some very nice bike path through the hilly woods that characterised Slovenia (despite the fact that we were still in Italy) and finally across the boarder.
Our dream cabin just next to the boarder of Slovenia
The Austrian bike path system is simply awesome
Yet another castle ruin along the way
Day 17 Kransjka Gora - Vrsiic Pass - Passo de Predil - Tarvisio - Kransjka Gora
The View of Triglav National Park from the town of Kranjska Gora
Entering Triglav National park and the climb up to Vrsiic Pass
We climbed Vrsiic Pass through the Triglav National park with cobbled switchbacks up to a glorious summit. The park is named after the mountain Triglav (three heads), the symbol of Slovenia. The summit of Vrsiic was not inhabited by quite as many motor cycles as the passes we had visited in Austria and Italy, it had a spectacular view of the craggy Dolomites and a guy riding around at the top on his bicycle collecting fees from the motorbikes and cars as they stopped at the top to view the scenery. If you did not stop you were lucky and did not have to pay the National Park fee.
The cobbled switchbacks up to the top of Vrsiic Pass
There were goats hanging out at the top licking the walls of rock underpasses for salt.
Vrsiic Pass
The pass plummeted downvalley and followed the Soca River for several miles. The Soca River is world renouned for canoeing and kayak trips - the upper part of the valley, where the Soca is still untamed by dams, has wild, milky blue - green waters. We admired the beautiful scenery as we followed the river downstream.
We followed a route through Seeberg pass where Stephen promised me we were not climbing more than 800 feet, nedless to say at 1100 feet we were still climbing.
The cobbled switchbacks up to the top of Vrsiic Pass
There were goats hanging out at the top licking the walls of rock underpasses for salt.
Vrsiic Pass
The pass plummeted downvalley and followed the Soca River for several miles. The Soca River is world renouned for canoeing and kayak trips - the upper part of the valley, where the Soca is still untamed by dams, has wild, milky blue - green waters. We admired the beautiful scenery as we followed the river downstream.
The Milky Blue Soca River
This was the view from the small town Log Pod Mangartom (definitely a view that would be awesome to wake up to every day), just before we climbed to Passo de Predil and past a fort from the Napoleonic era.
We then headed back up Passo del Predil into Italy. The climb was flavored with Italian steepness, steep rocky walls and then an old abandoned passport checkpoint at the top that in its time must have been a bustling boarder checkpoint.
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Instead it is now deserted - we sat an ate cookies in the shade of the checkpoint station and then headed down to Lago de Predil for our last cup of Italian coffee before we would head back to Slovenia and then Austria, Czech Republic and Germany. We savored the incredible view and the distinct aromas of Italian prepared coffee that only they know how to prepare.
Coffee at Lago del Predil - the final taste of Italian Coffee
Day 18 Kranjska Gora - Dravograd
We were sorry to leave Kranjska Gora - a beautifel place with a spectacular view of the Dolomites in the Triglav National park right outside the door and some of the nicest sunny days we had the entire trip.
Solvenia has beautiful rolling hills, deeply forested and friendly people, our stay was short but definitely left us with nostalgia to return. Probably next time with better planned accommodation stops.
This was the first of two 100 mile days. We had a hard time finding accommodations once we decided it was time to stop. After checking in at the Tourist office in Dravograd we found that once you leave the tourist areas, accommodations are minimal. We paid 78 Euro for what would be classified as a two star hotel at best in the US - it was considered a 3 star hotel in Slovenia. The people were all super nice and helpful and we were thankful for a place to sleep and safely store our bikes. Tourism is expanding in this beautiful country but definitely not a primary industry yet.
Day 19 Dravograd - Maribor - Graz/Freisach
Our second 100 mile day.
From Dravograd we followed the Drava River thorugh Maribor the city center was somewhat beside the River and a very nice facade to follow however, on the city outskirts it showed signs of depression and hard times.
We were sorry to leave Kranjska Gora - a beautifel place with a spectacular view of the Dolomites in the Triglav National park right outside the door and some of the nicest sunny days we had the entire trip.
Solvenia has beautiful rolling hills, deeply forested and friendly people, our stay was short but definitely left us with nostalgia to return. Probably next time with better planned accommodation stops.
This was the first of two 100 mile days. We had a hard time finding accommodations once we decided it was time to stop. After checking in at the Tourist office in Dravograd we found that once you leave the tourist areas, accommodations are minimal. We paid 78 Euro for what would be classified as a two star hotel at best in the US - it was considered a 3 star hotel in Slovenia. The people were all super nice and helpful and we were thankful for a place to sleep and safely store our bikes. Tourism is expanding in this beautiful country but definitely not a primary industry yet.
Day 19 Dravograd - Maribor - Graz/Freisach
Our second 100 mile day.
From Dravograd we followed the Drava River thorugh Maribor the city center was somewhat beside the River and a very nice facade to follow however, on the city outskirts it showed signs of depression and hard times.
One of the more interesting sights amongst the vineyards and fruit trees was a little remote control car action we came across just before crossing the border back into Austria. And some interesting bike route signage!
This was our view as we ate lunch and crossed back into Austria.
We continued North along the Mur River Radweg through Graz. Riding through the city center on a Sunday afternoon and it was absolutely hopping. Somewhat of a hippy 'Boulder' city feel with thousands of people out enjoying the sunshine, bike paths and parks. If more people did this in America we would probably reduce the escalating obesity and Type 2 diabetes epidemics.
We had hoped to find a place to stay on the North side of Graz but again pickings were slim. Still riding at 7:15pm we were getting stressed. After stopping at a B&B in Fresiach which was full, they referred us to another guesthouse in town which was partially closed. We had a very comfortable room and super awesome breakfast and were ready to forge on.
Day 20 Freisach - Mariazell
On this day we passed through Gossing and saw a spectacular iron water fountain - a guy riding his bike powered by pee power. And some other super bike route ornamentation.
We had hoped to find a place to stay on the North side of Graz but again pickings were slim. Still riding at 7:15pm we were getting stressed. After stopping at a B&B in Fresiach which was full, they referred us to another guesthouse in town which was partially closed. We had a very comfortable room and super awesome breakfast and were ready to forge on.
Day 20 Freisach - Mariazell
On this day we passed through Gossing and saw a spectacular iron water fountain - a guy riding his bike powered by pee power. And some other super bike route ornamentation.
We followed a route through Seeberg pass where Stephen promised me we were not climbing more than 800 feet, nedless to say at 1100 feet we were still climbing.
The town of Mariazell has a spectacular Basilica. This Basilica has seen visits from two Popes in 1983 and 2007; it sees many traditionally organized pilgrimages and pilgrims on their own, walking barfooted in the sourrounding hills, submitting their requests or just giving thanks—all of this makes Mariazell the epitome of what pilgrimage is in Austria. The Basilica of Mariazell has two focal points: the sacral shrine and the artistic high altar designed by Fischer von Erlach. The most significant part of the Basilica, outshining everything else, is the late-Romanesque Miraculous Statue of the Madonna, carrying the Holy Child on her right arm. We did not see these sights as it was closed by the time we arrived, the eterior of this Building is impressive and it indicates the presence of volumes of people. We had the pleasure of experiencing it in the sublime quiet of the evening with an almost empty town plaza.
Mariazell Basilica Views of the Valley from Mariazell
Mariazell Basilica Views of the Valley from Mariazell
Mariazell sunset
Day 21 Mariazell - Ybbs to the Donau River (Danube) to Grein.
We left the pretty town of Mariazell and headed back to the Donauradweg - one of the most famous bike routes in Europe. Many people journey through one or all of the four segments of this route
Donaueschingen-Passau (559 km)
Passau-Vienna (340 km)
Vienna-Budapest (306 km)
Budapest-Black Sea (1670 km)
Passau-Vienna (340 km)
Vienna-Budapest (306 km)
Budapest-Black Sea (1670 km)
We rode only a small segment of this route however the cyclists on this path were numerous and it was great flat riding to help us recover from the numerous passes we had climbed in the prior weeks.
Crossing the Donau by ferry to Grein where we found an unusual guesthouse.
We spent the night with Peacock's screeching all night, on and off rainfall and awakening to the Roosters crowing at an unreasonable hour. Breakfast on the other hand was long after the rooster had crowed and we got a later than desired start to another day of threatening skies.
Day 22 Grein - Linz - Czech republic (Vyssi Brod) - Cesky Krumlov
We had originally planned on travelling into the Czech Republic and onto Prague but somewhere along the way in our travels we determined that possibly Prague was not the ideal location for us to finish and get back to Jodie and Berten's place in Duisburg. However we were determined to at least experience a taste of the Czech Republic. Upon crossing the again deserted boarder, we rode through Vyssi Brod which was inhabited by many immigrants trying to sell various goods at roadside stalls, it was a little disconcerting and we were concerned that it was not the most ideal town to spend the evening. We visited the grocery store to find that the Currency was indeed not the Euro and currency conversion was a little challenging. Once we determined the exchange rate we realised food was definitely a little cheaper in this part of the world, except we were not sure what we were eating since the labels were definitely a challenge to decypher.
Day 22 Grein - Linz - Czech republic (Vyssi Brod) - Cesky Krumlov
We had originally planned on travelling into the Czech Republic and onto Prague but somewhere along the way in our travels we determined that possibly Prague was not the ideal location for us to finish and get back to Jodie and Berten's place in Duisburg. However we were determined to at least experience a taste of the Czech Republic. Upon crossing the again deserted boarder, we rode through Vyssi Brod which was inhabited by many immigrants trying to sell various goods at roadside stalls, it was a little disconcerting and we were concerned that it was not the most ideal town to spend the evening. We visited the grocery store to find that the Currency was indeed not the Euro and currency conversion was a little challenging. Once we determined the exchange rate we realised food was definitely a little cheaper in this part of the world, except we were not sure what we were eating since the labels were definitely a challenge to decypher.
The Czech's definitely indulge in Pork products and many tinned vegetable/oil based items, not quite as many fresh vegetable products were available as in Austria and Italy.
We arrived in Cesky Krumlov after 7pm, we passed hundreds of canoe trip campers along the route wondering if we were going to find a place to stay. Fortunately our first stop we found the best accommodations of our entired trip. A guest house with attached kitchen. Our breakfast was served while we were still in bed, a fridge stocked with Czech beer and drinks for about $1.00 each, an internet connection and a super nice host. We would have loved to have stayed longer but now the days were limited and we needed to make it to our destination in Bad Weisee.
Cesky Krumlov is a beautiful cultural town, alive with activities ranging from Canoe trips to outdoor opera performances. Definitely a place to be visited.
Day 23 Cesky Krumlov - Horny Plana - Nova Pec - Ulrichsberg
The route from Nova Pec to Ulrichsberg was some of the most scenic and awesome cycling road we could have asked for. Deserted roads, in the woods, beautiful wildflowers and no rain. We topped out and crossed the boarder from Czech Republic back into Austria via Scharding a small Nordic ski town that had a Nordic Fitness park and ropes course setup right along the side of the road. We got to watch a few people testing their skills in the ropes course.
Day 23 Cesky Krumlov - Horny Plana - Nova Pec - Ulrichsberg
The route from Nova Pec to Ulrichsberg was some of the most scenic and awesome cycling road we could have asked for. Deserted roads, in the woods, beautiful wildflowers and no rain. We topped out and crossed the boarder from Czech Republic back into Austria via Scharding a small Nordic ski town that had a Nordic Fitness park and ropes course setup right along the side of the road. We got to watch a few people testing their skills in the ropes course.
Early in the day we managed to find ourselves in a military area for the Czech Army. The roads were deserted and super riding however we did get passed by several army vehicles the last on came to a virtual crawl as it passed as. Then as we approached the next town - where it seemed the headquarters were located we stopped to review our map. A gentleman came out and informed us which way we needed to go, there were not going to be any road choices at this intersection.
Views of some of the old communist era buildings plain and grey that served the working era purposes. Many of the buildings are still of course being used. The more modern buildings, built since this time have a little more color and character to them allowing the people to input some of their personal flair into their home.
Day 24 Ulrichsberg back to the Donau - Passau - Mullheim
This day saw rain for almost the entire day. We had about 30km of relief as we rode along the Donau through the beautiful town of Passau that sits on the confluence of three rivers - the Danube is joined in Passau by the Inn from the South, and the Ilz coming out of the Bavarian Forest to the North. From 1892 until 1894 Adolf Hitler and his family lived in Passau. The city archives mention Hitler being in Passau on 4 different occasions in the 1920s for speeches.
During World War II the town housed three sub-camps of the infamous Mauthausen-Gusen concentration camp: Passau I (Oberilzmühle), Passau II (Waldwerke Passau-Ilzstadt) and Passau III (Jandelsbrunn). It was the site of a post World War II American sector displaced persons camp.
We were finally dry, after passing through Passau and changing routes from the Donauradweg to the Innradwegthe Inn river. Then, just as we thought we were safe and could continue a few more Kilomters the rain hit in bucketfulls and the bike path turned to dirt. We were a mess arriving in Mullheim a small town. We desperately saught a warm dry place, paid a small fortune for a room in a newly remodelled Guesthouse. They were so kind it was worth every penny. They washed our clothes, shoes and even our bikes for us while we left dirty muddy tracks everywhere.
Day 25 Mullheim - Burghausen am Linn - Salzburg - Wals
From Mullheim we continued down the Linn river, riding in Austria but looking across the river into Germany. We stopped for lunch at a park that overlooked the Burghausen Castle.
The skies looked as though they would open up most of the day and finally did as we were grocery shopping (at the last possible minute as usual) in Salzburg. We sat out the rain and continued a few miles out of Salzburg to Wals. Salzburg has magnificent cultural heritage all along the river, which was getting close to flooding. Stephen snapped pictures as we tried to make our way out of the city.
Day 26 Walz - Steinpass - Wall - Bayrischzell - Bad Weisee
The weather continued to look pretty ominous as we set out for our last day of loaded riding (at least Stephen was loaded). We planned to spend a couple days in Bad Weisee and do some day trips to Garmisch and surrounding areas while staying with a long time family friend Jackie Petterson.
We had some climbing to do beginning with Steinpass then through Erpfendorf, Oberaudorf and up into the skies. The town outside of Oberaudorf had a most appropriate name 'Wall' as the 2-3 km stretch through the town was a wall. Probably the steepest grade we had climbed our entire journey. We topped out at a small ski hill and then dropped down into Bayrischzell as the rain started to fall. We drank coffee in Bayrischzell hoping it would stop but to no avail. It did eventually ease up but we were chilled. We dressed in mulitple layers to finish the last 30km to the Tegernsee and Bad Weisee. Yet again 3km from our destination the skies opened and we rode the final few kilometers in the rain.
It was a relief to arrive at Jackie's. We indulged in some Italian fare for dinner and slept in the next morning. The rain had been coming down steadily most of the night and continued that way for 2+ days.
Views of some of the old communist era buildings plain and grey that served the working era purposes. Many of the buildings are still of course being used. The more modern buildings, built since this time have a little more color and character to them allowing the people to input some of their personal flair into their home.
Day 24 Ulrichsberg back to the Donau - Passau - Mullheim
This day saw rain for almost the entire day. We had about 30km of relief as we rode along the Donau through the beautiful town of Passau that sits on the confluence of three rivers - the Danube is joined in Passau by the Inn from the South, and the Ilz coming out of the Bavarian Forest to the North. From 1892 until 1894 Adolf Hitler and his family lived in Passau. The city archives mention Hitler being in Passau on 4 different occasions in the 1920s for speeches.
During World War II the town housed three sub-camps of the infamous Mauthausen-Gusen concentration camp: Passau I (Oberilzmühle), Passau II (Waldwerke Passau-Ilzstadt) and Passau III (Jandelsbrunn). It was the site of a post World War II American sector displaced persons camp.
We were finally dry, after passing through Passau and changing routes from the Donauradweg to the Innradwegthe Inn river. Then, just as we thought we were safe and could continue a few more Kilomters the rain hit in bucketfulls and the bike path turned to dirt. We were a mess arriving in Mullheim a small town. We desperately saught a warm dry place, paid a small fortune for a room in a newly remodelled Guesthouse. They were so kind it was worth every penny. They washed our clothes, shoes and even our bikes for us while we left dirty muddy tracks everywhere.
The Donauradweg continues from Passau to Vienna (Part II-This is the most popular section) it continues for 340 kilometers to Vienna. On this section there are paved paths for all but 100 meters on either the north or south banks with bridges, ferries and some dams linking the two banks. The trail is typically traveled from west to east as it is down-hill and the winds are typically from west. All along the way there are delightful small towns, placid scenery, castles on the hills, monasteries, and excursions into woods and farm country, something we may have to return to on a future adventure.
The beautiful city of Passau
Day 25 Mullheim - Burghausen am Linn - Salzburg - Wals
From Mullheim we continued down the Linn river, riding in Austria but looking across the river into Germany. We stopped for lunch at a park that overlooked the Burghausen Castle.
The skies looked as though they would open up most of the day and finally did as we were grocery shopping (at the last possible minute as usual) in Salzburg. We sat out the rain and continued a few miles out of Salzburg to Wals. Salzburg has magnificent cultural heritage all along the river, which was getting close to flooding. Stephen snapped pictures as we tried to make our way out of the city.
Day 26 Walz - Steinpass - Wall - Bayrischzell - Bad Weisee
The weather continued to look pretty ominous as we set out for our last day of loaded riding (at least Stephen was loaded). We planned to spend a couple days in Bad Weisee and do some day trips to Garmisch and surrounding areas while staying with a long time family friend Jackie Petterson.
We had some climbing to do beginning with Steinpass then through Erpfendorf, Oberaudorf and up into the skies. The town outside of Oberaudorf had a most appropriate name 'Wall' as the 2-3 km stretch through the town was a wall. Probably the steepest grade we had climbed our entire journey. We topped out at a small ski hill and then dropped down into Bayrischzell as the rain started to fall. We drank coffee in Bayrischzell hoping it would stop but to no avail. It did eventually ease up but we were chilled. We dressed in mulitple layers to finish the last 30km to the Tegernsee and Bad Weisee. Yet again 3km from our destination the skies opened and we rode the final few kilometers in the rain.
It was a relief to arrive at Jackie's. We indulged in some Italian fare for dinner and slept in the next morning. The rain had been coming down steadily most of the night and continued that way for 2+ days.
